![]() Bar hangers are strong, easier than nailing up blocking, and easily positioned by sliding the box along its support bar. Before doing so, however, be sure there is enough room inside the fan’s canopy to hide electrical connections-because there’s no room for them in the pancake box! If not, move the fan or modify your plans.Īn alternative is to mount an adjustable hanger to the framing. If you must hang a fan from a ceiling joist’s edge, screw a 1⁄2-in.-deep metal pancake box directly to the joist. ![]() toenailed wood screws through each end of the blocking and into the joists, keeping the blocking on your marks. Mark the location of the blocking so the box will be flush to the finished ceiling surface. You can install a piece of 2×4 or 2×6 blocking to the ceiling joists (or rafters), then mount a 2-in.-deep octagonal metal box to the blocking. If ceiling joists are exposed, you have several options. Add downrod extensions as needed to locate the fan blades 8 ft. ![]() Mounting details and fan assemblies vary (shown here is an old-style fan, still common in many homes): Follow the installation instructions that come with your unit. If you will be installing the fan in a humid indoor location, buy a UL-listed fan marked “Suitable for damp locations.” If the fan will be installed outdoors, such as in a porch or a gazebo, select a UL-listed fan marked “Suitable for wet locations.” Wet-rated fans will have sealed motors, rust-resistant housings and hardware, and all-weather blades. Most ceiling fans are intended for dry indoor rooms. If your fan is particularly heavy or complex, it may require a box with a higher weight rating or additional bracing. All fans must be installed in a ceiling box rated for fan use-that is, capable of supporting 50 lb. ![]() All fans must be securely mounted to framing, but this is especially true of ceiling fans, which are weighty and subject to vibration and wobbling. ![]()
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